Smangus

Why visit

Smangus was one of the last villages in Taiwan to be connected by road. In 1991, villagers found a grove of giant red cypress trees in the forest above the valley, and visitors began to arrive. Rather than sell their land to outside developers, the community chose to run tourism together, sharing the lodges, restaurant and income. Today Smangus is known across Taiwan for its trees and for its way of life.

The giant tree trail

• The walk: a forest trail of about 5 km each way, with gentle climbs, wooden boardwalks and bamboo groves, then a descent into the grove.
• The trees: a group of huge Taiwan red cypresses, each with its own name, the largest more than 2,000 years old.
• The fee: the village charges a small fee for the trail, which pays for its upkeep.

The village

The village sits on a ridge with wide views across the valley to the Atayal village of Cinsbu, which has its own giant trees. There is a church, a lodge and a restaurant serving Atayal-style food. Staying the night lets you start the trail early, before the mist rises.

Tips

• Book a room in the village well ahead, especially for weekends. Day visitors can walk the trail, but the round trip from Hsinchu makes for a very long day.
• The road can close after heavy rain and typhoons. Check before you set out.
• It is cool and damp all year at this height. Bring layers, a rain jacket and shoes with good grip.
• Respect village rules on noise, alcohol and photography.
• Read our full guide to visiting Smangus.