Nature tour
Season: Year-round; roads can close after typhoonsSmangus giant cypress forest tour
- A forest walk to giant red cypresses, some over 2,000 years old
- Smangus, an Atayal village high in the mountains
Deep in the mountains of Jianshi Township, at the end of a long, winding road, the Atayal village of Smangus looks after a grove of giant red cypress trees, some more than 2,000 years old. A visit is a long journey, but it is one of the most memorable things you can do in northern Taiwan.
About the village
Smangus sits on a ridge at about 1,500 metres. It was one of the last villages in Taiwan to be connected by road, and life here was hard. When villagers found the giant trees in the forest above the valley in 1991, visitors began to come. The community decided to manage tourism together, as a cooperative: the lodges, restaurant and land are shared, and the income pays for housing, education and care for everyone.
The giant tree trail
The trail to the giant trees is about 5 km each way. It climbs gently through forest and bamboo, with boardwalks over muddy sections, then drops into the grove. Allow 5 to 6 hours there and back, with time to look around.
- The trees: Taiwan red cypresses, each with a name. The largest are more than 2,000 years old and huge around the trunk.
- The forest: moss, ferns and mist, and birdsong in the early morning.
- The fee: the village charges a small fee for the trail, which pays for its upkeep.
Cinsbu
Across the valley, the Atayal village of Cinsbu, also called Zhenxibao, has its own giant tree trails and a striking stone church. You can see it from Smangus, but it is a long drive round by road.
Getting there
Smangus is about 3 to 4 hours by car from Hsinchu, the last part on narrow, steep mountain roads with sharp bends. There is no regular public transport. If you are not confident on mountain roads, take a tour. The road can close after heavy rain and typhoons, so check before you go.
Where to stay
Stay in the village lodge if you can. It means you can start the trail early, before the mist and the day visitors arrive. Rooms are simple and must be booked well ahead, especially for weekends. Meals are served in the village restaurant.
What to bring
- Layers and a warm jacket: it is cool all year at this height, and cold in winter.
- A rain jacket: mist and rain are common, especially in the afternoon.
- Shoes with good grip for wet roots and boardwalks.
- Water and snacks for the trail.
- Cash: card payments are not always possible.
Respect the village
Smangus is a home, not a theme park. Follow the village rules, keep noise down at night, take your rubbish with you and ask before you photograph people. Read more in our Smangus guide, and for another mountain trip, see the tours to Guanwu on our tours page.
