Neiwan and Beipu: a day in Hsinchu’s Hakka hill towns

The hills east and south-east of Hsinchu are Hakka country, a landscape of tea gardens, bamboo and small towns where the old ways of cooking and building live on. Neiwan and Beipu are the two best-known towns, and together they make a perfect day out from the city.

Getting around

Neiwan is easy to reach by train, but Beipu is on a different road, about 40 minutes’ drive away. Most people do this trip by car, by taxi for the day or on a tour. By public transport, choose one town, or allow a long day with buses between them.

Morning: the Neiwan Line

The Neiwan Line is a branch railway that climbs from the plains into the hills, past rice fields and river valleys. Trains leave from Hsinchu Station and stop at Liujia, next to the high-speed rail station. Some run through, others need a change at Zhuzhong. The whole trip takes about an hour.

Neiwan

Neiwan was a logging and coal town, and the railway was built to serve it. Today its old street is lined with snack stalls and Hakka restaurants. Try wild ginger flower zongzi, Hakka mochi and a plate of Hakka stir-fry, then walk to the long suspension bridge over the river for the view up the valley. Look for the old cinema, now a restaurant decorated with hand-painted film posters.

Afternoon: Beipu

Beipu is one of the best-preserved Hakka towns in Taiwan. In the 1830s, a company called Jinguangfu, formed by Hakka and Hoklo settlers, was given the job of opening up these hills, and Beipu became its base.

• The Citian Temple: the town’s main temple, dedicated to Guanyin, at the centre of the old streets.
• Jinguangfu: the company’s old office, now a national monument.
• Tianshuitang: the grand courtyard mansion of the Jiang family, seen from outside.
• The lanes: narrow alleys of brick houses and old wells.

End the day in a teahouse with a bowl of lei cha. You grind sesame, peanuts and tea leaves in a ridged bowl, then add hot water. Buy some Oriental Beauty tea or dried persimmons to take home.

If you have more time

• Emei Lake: a reservoir near Beipu, with a giant statue of the Maitreya Buddha on its shore.
• Lion’s Head Mountain: a hill of temples built into cliffs, with walking trails, on the border with Miaoli.
• A night in a homestay: stay in the hills to see fireflies in spring. See where to stay.

Tips

• Go on a weekday. Both towns are very busy on weekends and holidays.
• April and May bring tung blossoms and fireflies, and autumn brings persimmons.
• Many shops in Beipu close by late afternoon.
• Read about what to try in our Hsinchu food guide.