Shops and food stalls under a pointed wooden roof on Neiwan Old Street

Hakka village

Neiwan

Neiwan sits in a river valley in the hills of Hengshan Township, at the end of a little branch railway from Hsinchu. Once a logging and mining town, it is now a favourite day out, with an old street of Hakka snacks, a suspension bridge over the river and fireflies in spring.

Why visit

Neiwan grew in the mid-20th century as a centre for logging and coal, and the Neiwan Line was built to carry them down to the plains. When the industries closed, the village found a new life as a weekend escape. The ride up the valley is part of the fun, and the village keeps a slow, small-town feel, especially on weekdays.

What to see

  • Neiwan Old Street: a short, busy street of snack stalls, Hakka restaurants and souvenir shops, starting by the station.
  • The suspension bridge: a long footbridge across the Youluo River, with views of the valley.
  • Neiwan Theatre: an old cinema turned restaurant, decorated with hand-painted film posters.
  • The station: a small wooden terminus where the tracks end in the hills.
  • The forestry exhibition hall: a small museum of the village’s logging history.

What to eat

Look for wild ginger flower zongzi, sticky rice dumplings wrapped in leaves with a gentle floral scent, as well as Hakka mochi rolled in peanut powder, Hakka stir-fry and pickled vegetables. Read more in our guide to what to eat in Hsinchu.

Fireflies and tung blossoms

In April and May, the hills around Neiwan turn white with tung blossoms, and fireflies glow along the streams after dark. Local guides lead evening walks at the peak of the season.

Tips

  • Trains run from Hsinchu Station, some direct and others with a change at Zhuzhong. Check the timetable, as services are about hourly.
  • Weekends and holidays are very crowded. Go on a weekday if you can.
  • Combine Neiwan with Beipu in our Neiwan and Beipu day trip guide.
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